I was recently invited to the Cuckoo Club in Mayfair to sample their extensive cocktails and food menu. Mayfair member’s clubs aren’t usually my thing, but after a few of their cocktails I felt very at home. The glam decor comes courtesy of Biba’s Barbara Hulanicki who designed the wallpaper for the venue, along with fun details like cheeky pop toilets and the world’s largest mirrorball, which nearly set off a Hitchcock-style bout of vertigo on the stairs.
The Cuckoo Club menu is fairly traditional European-influenced cuisine, things like chargrilled beef and marinated chicked that go down well after a few drinks. They have obviously sourced great quality meat and fish, I really enjoyed the beef, cooked to rare perfection and the sea bass was moist and yielding, but with accompaniments like fries and roast veg it’s more luxe pub grub than fine dining. There’s nothing wrong with that, but vegetarians might find themselves slightly limited on choice.
I’d say the Cuckoo Club is definitely more a ‘hotspot’ than a restaurant destination but if mood lighting (fuchsia pink!), great location and the range of cocktails is up your street then you’ll definitely appreciate a visit.