I always think of resort as like when you see your teacher out of school, it’s exciting and different and a little bit weird. Resort is a great time for seeing the more flighty, scrappy and experimental ideas from your favourite designers. Little fledging designs that might not make AW or SS. It’s like the broken biscuits to the Viscount of the catwalk world, and I always, always go for the underdog.
Cynthia Rowley to the left, working the sports metallic look. Band of Outsiders kick off a run of prints under transluscent white plastic or chiffon. The BoO version is sporty and jaunty, at Celine it’s a much more luxe affair (bien sur). Acne’s collection is all a bit Nouveau Western, reminds me of Jean Paul Gaultier in the 90s which is no bad thing.
Erdem takes his trademark florals, breaks it up with patchwork and gives it a bit of Grande Dame vibe, at Thakoon a similar patchwork technique felt much more space agey.
Suno and Marc Jacobs both went for longline silhouettes with mixed patterns but where Suno was relatively sober Marc Jacobs plumped for some folksy kitchen kitsch that reminds me a little of Polish paper cuts. I like the way the Suno outfit feels kind of twenties in shape without referencing any of the obvious twenties shizzle that everyone is going Great Gatsby gaga for at the moment.
I’m a total sucker for a cocoon coat, Hitchcock is a lazy comparison to make but the glacial blondes at Peter Jensen were pure Alf. Peter Pilotto continue to impress with their prints, I think the key to the successful realisation of their ideas is the attention to detail, can’t wait to see this look up close.
Can’t do a roundup without including some trad NY labels, Altazurra nailed it for me with a mix of preppy pieces and ikat fabric, surfire way to my heart. Rebecca Minkoff’s take on resort was high school cool kid gone fa-aancy and I loved it.
All images Style.com and NY Mag
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