Tramontana Brindisa

Does anyone else get tapas fear? That subconscious small plates worry that you won’t fill your belly, it’s a really concern for a total pig like me.

I had my food radar on red alert at Tramontana Brindisa, the latest tapas kitchen from the Borough-based Spanish food importer. I was quickly calmed by some super-strong red wine and a selection of snacks including their salted marcona almonds, olives and St John bread with the most green, fruity olive oil I’ve had in a long time.

Soft, deliciously rare lamb cutlets, garlicky squid and salty padron peppers were nicer version of the dishes I’ve had in Barcelona. New flavours included the canalons casolans, a canneloni-style dish with white raisins, spinach, pine nuts and an ultra-light white sauce. The fideua de sepia is a hearty, meaty dish of short pasta, squid and prawns which finally put paid to my growling gut. We kind of went to town on the desserts and by that point I was definitely in the waddlezone with arroz con leche, almond tarta de santiago and crema de catalana. My dad had the torrijas with apple crumble and salted caramel ice cream, a mouth-watering mix of trad English, Spanish and modern. Tramontana Brindisa is a lovely place, the food is interesting and inventive but has a straightforward purposefulness that doesn’t mess around.

Tramontana Brindisa, 152 Curtain Road, London EC2A 3AT

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